A Zombie customization is a Beyblade combo that is designed to steal spin from the opponent and have the "Life After Death" ability. They must steal the opposing Beyblade's spin because they can not last long on their own compared to Survival types. Zombies use specific parts in order for it to work together. The AR used on a Zombie are either compact or aligns with the WD in order to prevent any recoil from hits. The WD and SP used on this type of customization are usually circular in shape which allows a minimum amount of friction between the two Beyblades to let it steal spin as well as to help in the "Life After Death Ability". The BB and SG used determines which direction it steals spin in, what type of bearing and shaft are to be used, and whether or not to have a SP with it.
The most commonly known aspect of Zombie Beyblades, spin stealing refers to when your Beyblade uses the momentum of the opposing Beyblade to keep itself spinning. To do this, your Beyblade must be spinning in the opposite direction of the opponent's Beyblade. When the opponent's Beyblade hits yours, your Beyblade will use the rotation of the other Beyblade to propel itself to keep moving. In order to do this properly zombie blades must have a free spinning tip supported by bearings.
Life After Death
The origin of the name "Zombie" is not its ability to steal spin, but its "life after death" ability. The term "Life After Death" is used to describe a zombie's ability to continue spinning on its side after it has fallen over. If your Beyblade is still making complete rotations, it is still considered to be spinning. To have this ability, your Beyblade must be perfectly round at the points that touch the stadium floor when it falls over. For this reason, Wide Survivor is the best weight disk to use on zombie type combos.
To build a true Zombie, there is a very specific list of parts that will work correctly. Below you will find a list of parts that will work with Zombie Beyblades along with their advantages and disadvantages.
- Wing Cross (Bistool, Gekiryu-oh, Ultimate Frostic Dranzer: This AR is very light and the weight is distributed evenly. Unfortunately, this AR can only be used in right spin.
- Gyro AR (Bearing Gyros Magical Balancer, Bearing Gyros Magical Layer, Bearing Gyros Magical Stander): This AR is the perfect AR for Survival-type Beyblades. It has a perfectly round form with four small wings to steal spin. However, the Beyblades it originates from are incredibly rare.
- Twin Horn (Gabriel): This AR has a very round shape and small notches to steal spin from the opposing Beyblade. It also has a small amount of smash attack that can occasionally knock out the opposing Beyblade. Unfortunately, this can also cause Beyblades using Twin Horn to recoil. It is important to note that the Hasbro version of Twin Horn was modified to support a Sub-Ring and thus, only the Takara version should be used for Zombies.
- Tiger Defenser (Driger S, Hasbro's Jumping Base): This AR is very compact and has small points where it can steal spin.
- War Lion (Galeon, BBA Balancer): This AR is very compact and has small points where it can steal spin. Also, War Lion's free-spinning Sub-Ring prevents it from being hit hard by the opposing Beyblade.
- Turtle Survivor (Metal Draciel, Master Dranzer): One of the less popular choices, it has great potential. It is very lightweight with perfect balance, and the four wings line up perfectly with Wide Survivor to steal spin.
- Wide Survivor is the best choice for a Zombie combo. Its perfectly circular shape allows for life-after-death and lines up with most ARs well enough to steal spin. A spark disk version of Wide Survivor was released with sandpaper around the edge. This greatly increases its spin stealing ability.
- Wide Defense is the only other acceptable weight disk to use for a zombie combo. This weight disk became popular for zombie combos when players started using attack types to counter zombies.
- Bearing Base (Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger): Although this BB does not have an SG, the metal shaft can be placed in Bearing SG (Wolborg) and Bearing SG 2 (Wolborg 2) to allow compatibility with 4-Layer and 5-Layer customization. Hasbro's Bearing Stinger has a harder tip than Takara's. Serious Japanese players would import Hasbro's Bearing Stinger for their zombie combos.
- Bearing SG (Wolborg): The most basic tip selection. However, only the Takara version is suitable; Hasbro's Bearing SG has design flaws in the sharpness of the tip and the straightness of the shaft.
- Bearing SG 2 (Wolborg 2): Using this tip, you will sacrifice Survival for Defense ability. If you are facing a Beyblade with a significant amount of Attack ability, this tip may be a better choice than the others.
- Bearing Core (Burning Kerberous): Not to be confused with Wolborg MS's Bearing Core, this Bearing Core is inserted into a Neo SG. Bearing Core is unique in that it has three bearings: two in the shaft and one in the tip. The one in the tip cannot be replaced, but the ones in the shaft can. It includes one NSK shield bearing and one metal bearing; you must replace the metal bearing with an NSK shield bearing. The tip of Bearing Core is sharper than the previous tips, but it also has a lower angle that allows it to be shot into Attack-mode like a Metal Change tip.
- Bearing Base (Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger): This BB, like the SG of Burning Kerberus, can hold two NSK shield bearings. However, one of the included bearings is a metal bearing and must be replaced. Unfortunately, this BB can't be shot in left spin.
- Defense Grip 2 (Wolborg 2): A round an evenly-weighted base that serves itself well to all of the above-listed SGs except for Bearing Core. However, this BB cannot use SP (Support Parts).
- Customize Grip (Dragoon V2): Dragoon V2's tip can be removed and Bearing SG, Bearing SG 2 and Bearing Core can all be inserted. This BB is the only way to use Bearing SG and Bearing SG 2 in conjunction with SP.
- Customize Bearing (Burning Kerberous): Only the Bearing Core can fit into this BB; however, it is sleeker and smaller than Customize Grip.
- Cross Survivor (Dranzer V2): These SP slope upwards to protect against Upper Attack, and have four symmetrical projections that can steal spin in either spin direction.
- Defense Ring (Voltaic Ape): These SP are perfectly round with small bumps running along the edge that will assist slightly in spin-stealing.
- Survivor Ring (Dark Series): These SP are perfectly round with three small wings that assist greatly in stealing spin. For the best performance, Survivor Ring should be used with a left-spin Beyblade.
- Drain Fafnir: The left spinning layer combined with the rubber allows it to steal spin very well. Drain Fafnir is currently outclassed heavily so only use it as a last resort.
- Spriggan Requiem: With its dual spin,rubber, and decent weight, Sr has held a spot in spin stealing and zombie combos up for quite a while, but has since fallen out of use
- Hell Salamander (Takara): In defense mode, Hell Salamander is very round with considerable weight and OWD giving it incredible stamina, combined with its left spin, it can stay spinning at low speed.
- Arc Balkesh B3 (Hasbro): Habro's Arc Balkesh is unusually tight compared to its Takara Tomy counterpart, and combined with the fact that burst zombies are reliant on their disks and drivers rather than layers and Hasbro's Bearing having a strong spring created a beast of a zombie but has fallen out of use with the introduction of the Zwei base which can KO Balkesh fairly easily.
- 0/10/00: The heaviest Core Disks. with this weight they have quite a bit of momentum allowing the combo to keep spinning while at low speeds and not moving when attacked.
- Vanguard: Vanguard hangs down low creating a low center of mass allowing to be used very effectively on Bearing. On other drivers Vanguard can scrape rather spectacularly.
- Ωuter: Ωuter is an incredibly wide disk that provides tremendous amounts of stamina at the cost of weight. Its round shape allows it to glide along the stadium if it does contact it at all letting the bey continue to spin knocked down.
- Cross: Cross is a fairly round and smooth frame that angles upwards that allows for quite good LAD in both spin directions unlike Glaive.
- Wall/Turn/Lift/Expand: Dubbed the "Bearing Frames", Theses disks are the heaviest frames and hang down, lowering the center of mass creating great stability for the Bearing and Hold drivers making it hard for them to fall over.
- Atomic (Tornado Wyvern): Atomic has high stamina and moderate LAD with a free spinning tip increasing spin steal capabilities.
- Bearing: Bearing is free spinning with a POM tip (Hasbro's lacks POM). It has strong stamina and LAD, with low hanging Disks and Frames Bearing also has incredible stability making it a top choice for modern Zombies
- Hold/Hold': Hold has a free spinning ring that increases stability and it has very strong spin equalization capabilities, however, it's stamina is not nearly good as other parts. A ' has been released for this part allowing for more mobile Zombies.
- Xtend+: The driver with arguably the title of the driver with the highest LAD. Its completely circular bottom allows for more precession than most drivers.
The condition of your tip is very important in not only zombie types, but any type of combo. Generally, mint tips have greater survival, but are easier to knock out of the stadium, while worn tips have greater defense. This important depending on what kind of combo your opponent is using. Eventually, players started using attack type combos to beat zombies. This spawned the usage of parts such as Wide Defense and Defense Grip 2. Therefore, you should have tips prepared with different conditions to face different scenarios.
NOTE: The following has been officially declared illegal under WBO rulings, and is being kept here for informational purposes. To make a true zombie the bearings on your beyblade must be tuned. There is a grease inside the bearings that keeps them from rusting. This grease creates friction. To reduce the friction remove the grease. To remove the grease from your bearings you need paint thinner (or something that can produce the same effect), two cases that can close (Film canisters work very well, and if not, you can find suitable containers at any department store), and some kind of desiccant (something that absorbs the moisture in its surrounding environment, which keeps the humidity down and prevents rusting because metal requires water to oxidize). Pour the paint thinner into the case and then place your bearings in the case, and close it. Shake the case for five minutes. The paint thinner should change color. When this happens remove the paint thinner and pour in new paint thinner. Let it sit for about an hour and then remove the bearings. Place your desiccant in the other case and keep your bearings in it. Without the grease your bearings will rust exponentially faster which brings us to the next step.
Coating To protect your bearings from rust you have to coat them in an oil like microlon (Microlon is used to create a dry-film lubrication that protects from rust and reduces friction.) Pour the microlon in a bottle and place your bearings in. Let is sit for about an hour then remove the bearings. Dry your bearings with a hair dryer and repeat this process 3-5 times.
Seasoning Even after being degreased there is still friction between the metal balls in the bearing. To reduce this connect your metal shaft to a motor and turn it on (The motor for remote control cars works) When your bearings start to make noise the seasoning is complete. This can take from 1-5 days. Seasoning will make the metal balls in your bearing in to perfect sphere shapes.
The Community Bearing tuning has become very frowned upon within the community. It has made the game broken and pretty much eliminates the fun of the game. Until Wolborg MS was released you could not win a tournament without a zombie type combo. The game became so broken that there have been talks of counting bearing tuning as illegal modification.